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BIRDING & CULTURE IN CUSCO
February 4, 2024
Peru, the third largest country in South America, has a rich cultural history and variety of landscapes: mighty Andes mountains, desert, cloud and rain forests, and a vast Pacific coastline. Due to the many different ecosystems, Peru is home to a wider diversity of plants and animals than most other countries on Earth.
Long before Peru became a country, the Andes and desert were a cradle for many ancient cultures who left their marks in the landscape and in the Peruvian culture. Their societies were very well organized, their architecture and handcrafts, like textile and jewelry, highly developed. There are many museums and archeological sites where the richness of Peru’s past is still tangible, as well as in the colorful clothes, food, and customs of the Peruvian people. One of the most well-known cultures were the Inca, who lived around 600 years ago. Their empire, “Tawantinsuyu” in the Inca language Quechua that is still widely spoken among the people of the Andes regions, was one of the greatest empires in the Americas, with its heart in Cusco and the Sacred Valley.
Peru’s colors, radiated through a variety of landscapes, biodiversity, rich cultural history, beautiful peoples, languages (48 different languages are spoken in Peru, the majority of them are indigenous languages, like Quechua), many different tropical fruits at the markets, make it a unique destination and a true sight for sore eyes. In this blog we will explore the different birding and cultural places that we will visit during our Birding & Culture Tours of 8 or 12 days.
We also write about a few more interesting archeological and birding places close to Cusco that are not included in the itineraries but are also worth visiting. Extensions to both Birding & Cultures tours are always possible, as well as personalized tours by picking and mixing different birding and cultural locations.
Cusco and the Inca
Nestled in a valley at almost 3400 meters above sea level in the high Andes mountains in southeastern Peru, Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire from the 13th until the 16th-century with the Spanish conquest. All that we know about this fascinating culture comes from the chronicles written in the decades after the colonization, since the Inca themselves didn’t have a written script. And of course, from the ongoing interpretations of the many archeological sites and artifacts that remained.
The Inca united different ethnic groups under their rule and within 3 generations, they managed to establish control over a vast area of South America: from Chile to Colombia. Especially under the legendary Pachacuti Inca Yupanqui (1438 – 1471 CE), the ninth ruling Sapa Inca (“the one and only emperor”), the empire expanded massively beyond the Cusco region. He is credited with almost all the significant economic, social, and architectural developments of the Inca state.
The Inca ruled the greatest empire on earth when in 1532 the Spanish forces of Francisco Pizarro arrived in Peru. Atahualpa, the ruling Sapa Inca at that time, was captured by Pizarro and executed after almost one year of hostage.
As a result of internal conflict, conquest by the Spaniards and the spread of deadly European diseases, the Inca empire, the last and largest of the indigenous states in the Americas, collapsed.
When the first Spaniards arrived in Cusco in 1533, they probably have marveled at the Inca temples covered with gold plates, altars and fountains similarly glimmering, and an architecture whose stonework surpassed anything comparable in Europe. Even today, this old imperial city and its surroundings still harbor many Inca treasures like the remains of Coricancha: the most important temple, devoted to the Sun god Inti. This beautiful complex was built in impressive Inca stonework and was used for important religious ceremonies. After the Spanish conquest, the church and monastery of Santo Domingo were built on top of the Coricancha. Many of the former structures and Inca stonework of the temple can still be seen.
The central plaza of Cusco (now Plaza de Armas) was also an important ceremonial area in Inca times. During major ceremonies like the celebration of the solstices, the mummies of dead Inca rulers and their wives were placed in the plaza and thousands of people gathered to see them. The mummies, that were held in a special chamber at the Coricancha, were treated as still-living beings. They were draped in fine textiles and jewelry, were served food and drinks and were carefully tended by their living descendants. For the Inca, mummification was a way of preserving power.
Cusco suffered severely from an earthquake in 1650, after which it was rebuilt in Spanish colonial style. There are still many colonial houses with characteristic balconies and churches in the old center. Especially San Blas is a very charming colonial neighborhood. Although Cusco’s colonial architecture is part of a very dark page of its past, it’s worth to stroll through the beautiful narrow streets and visit the impressive churches.
Cusco was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1983 and is the historical capital of Peru.
Museums in Cusco
During our city walk in Cusco on the first day of the tour, there is the possibility to visit one (or more) of Cusco’s many interesting museums like the Museo Inka (Inka Museum). This museum is located in an important Inca and later colonial mansion. The museum is part of the National University San Antonio Abad of Cusco. Its collection consists of ceramics and archaeological remains from the Inca and pre-Inca cultures, as well as seventeenth century paintings from the Cusco School.
Museo de Arte Precolombino (Museum of Pre-Columbian Art) harbors three thousand years of archaeological treasures from Peru’s rich cultural past. The collection contains fantastic artifacts from the Nasca, Mochica, Chimú and Chancay cultures, among others.
Museo Casa Concha, also known as the Machu Picchu Museum, was built on top of the palace of the Inca Túpac Yupanqui. It displays hundreds of artifacts from the legendary citadel Machu Picchu, collected by American explorer Hiram Bingham in 1911. These objects were returned to Peru in 2011. These are just a few museum options that Cusco has to offer.
Inca sites around Cusco
Saqsayhuaman
Just outside of Cusco, the monumental structure of Saqsayhuaman is situated on a high plateau. This complex was built by the Inca in the 15th century, particularly under Sapa Inca Pachacuti and his successors. Its function remains unclear, but it is thought to be a fortress that housed many soldiers and arms, as well as place for ceremonial activities and rituals. The massive dry-stone walls of Saqsayhuaman were built in the shape of lightnings. Huge stones were carefully cut to fit tightly together without mortar and just a bit of sand in between them. This famous Inca building technic allowed the structures to “move” during earthquakes without collapsing. It is very nice to wander around this big, beautiful site and admire the architectural talents of the Inca. From Saqsayhuaman there is a fantastic view over Cusco, down in the valley.
Q’enqo
Close to Saqsayhuaman is one of the largest huacas (holy places) in the Cusco region: Q’enqo. Q’enqo means “labyrinth” in Quechua but this name is given to the site by Spanish conquistadors. The original name is unknown. Many huacas were based on naturally occurring rock formations, like in the case of Q’enqo. It was believed to be a place where sacrifices and mummification took place.
The rocky formations of Q’enqo are a complex of natural and human made subterranean galleries, canals, and a semi-circular structure. The site may date back to a civilization before the Inca but archeologists and historians agree that the Inca used it as an important ceremonial and astrological site. The zigzag shaped canal that is carved into one of the rocks could have transported ceremonial chicha, a fermented corn drink, or blood of sacrificed llamas. Also from this site there is a nice view of Cusco in the Vally below.
Tambomachay
The beautiful Inca site of Tambomachay, also known as El Baño del Inca, is located 7 km northeast of Cusco at an altitude of 3800 meters above sea level. The site contains a series of canals that run through terraced rocks and were probably built between 1400 and 1480 CE by the orders of Pachacuti. The natural springs that were channeled through three waterfalls still flow today, 600 years later.
The function of Tambomachay remains unclear as well. It may have served as a military outpost of Cusco, or maybe as an imperial spa resort with baths for the Inca elite. It could also have had a religious function, since water was sacred for the Inca. Water fountains were part of almost all the major Inca temples. In Andean cosmovision, water is a source of life symbolizing the masculine part and the earth, Pachamama, the feminine part. Fertility was generated through the union of water and earth.
The site fits beautifully in the landscape like all the other Inca constructions. To build in harmony with the natural environment, making use of the natural shapes of the earth and rocks, was one of the big architectural and artistic talents of the Inca.
The surrounding landscape of Tambomachay that is characterized by high Andean vegetation, offers good birding opportunities. Birds that can be found here are the Junin Canastero, Rusty-fronted Canastero, Stripe-headed Antpitta, Andean Hillstar, and with a bit of luck the Boulder Finch.
Puka Pukara
Next to Tambomachay, at the other side of the road, is another Inca site named Puka Pukara. It was also constructed during the reign of Pachacuti. Puka Pukara means red fortress in Quechua, probably referring to the reddish color of its stones. The site could have been a military base, overlooking the surrounding area, and could also have functioned as an administrative center. The fort that was part of the defense of Cusco, has large walls, terraces, and staircases.
Because these interesting Inca sites are located close to each other, they can be visited in one day and there will be time for birding around the sites as well.
Sacred Valley of the Incas
The valley northwest of Cusco was the sacred center of the Inca empire, hence it is called the Sacred Valley of the Incas, el Valle Sagrado del Inca. Inca Pachacuti built various temples and fortresses at strategically important locations along the Sacred Valley, such as Pisac and Ollantaytambo.
Písac
The ancient Inca citadel of Pisac will be our first cultural stop in the Sacred Valley. It is situated high above the river Vilcamayo-Urubamba, that is winding through the Sacred Valley all the way down to the famous Machu Picchu. The name Písaqa is derived from the Quechua language and is the name of the Ornate Tinamou (Nothoprocta ornata), a bird found in the higher parts of this area. Archeological remains that pre-dated the Inca, were found at the site. It is believed that the famous Inca Pachacuti constructed the large complex as a multi-purpose residence and royal retreat, citadel, observatory, and religious site. Ceremonial baths are situated within the complex, as well as the largest Inca cemetery in South America with more than 10.000 tombs. The site is surrounded by many agricultural terraces that follow the shapes of the landscape.
The small and charming colonial town of Pisac is situated in the valley below. The town is famous for its colorful Peruvian textile and handcraft markets.
Ollantaytambo
On the way to our next stop, the town of Ollantaytambo, we will witness the magnificent scenery of Andes mountains with snow-covered tops. The impressive archeological complex of Ollantaytambo is a collection of houses, temples, platforms, colcas (deposits), and terraces. During the Inca Empire, Ollantaytambo was the royal estate of Inca Pachacuti, who conquered the region in the 15th century. He built the town and its ceremonial center. The site contains a water fountain known as known as The bath of the princess. This fountain, as well as the name “Ollantaytambo”, may refer to the legend of the forbidden love between the daughter of Inca Pachacuti named Cusi Coyllur and Ollantay, a general in Pachacuti’s army. Tambo means place in Quechua. The pretty village of Ollantaytambo is seen as the last “Inca village” because the houses and narrow streets built in Inca style, are still in use.
There are many more interesting and beautiful archeological Inca sites worth visiting in the Sacred Valley, like the palace of Inca Túpac Yupanqui in Chinchero, the salt mines of Maras, and the round terraces of Moray, used by the Inca for agricultural experiments. The tours can be extended with a visit to these places.
Machu Picchu
The cherry on the cultural pie will be a visit to the famous Lost city of the Incas high upon a mountain in the Cloud Forest: Machu Picchu. This magnificent citadel is one of the world’s seven wonders and a UNESCO World Heritage site. You will understand why once you have the chance to see it with your own eyes.
The nearest town to Machu Picchu, Aguas Calientes, can be reached by train from Cusco and the ride alone is worth it. The train follows the Vilcamayo – Urubamba River with spectacular views of the mountains, high plateaus, and the Cloud Forest. From Aguas Calientes there are buses to the citadel of Machu Picchu.
The impressive ruins of Machu Picchu, meaning old mountain in Quechua, became known to the scientific world in 1911 after the American archaeologist Hiram Bingham was led to the site by locals. Contemporary archeologists believe that Machu Picchu was constructed as a sacred place and a country resort for, there he is again, the important Inca emperor Pachacuti. The Inca started building Machu Picchu around 1430 CE in the classical Inca style, with polished dry-stone walls. Its main buildings are the Intihuatana, the Temple of the Sun, and the Room of the Three Windows. The citadel was a well-hidden and well protected place and was abandoned at the time of the Spanish conquest. Remarkably, the Spanish conquistadors never found the site and luckily never plundered it.
Situated high on a mountain in the Cloud Forest, the citadel is often literally covered in clouds. When the clouds slowly disappear and the ruins appear, is a magical and once-in-a-lifetime moment.
Birding around Cusco
During the birding part of the Birding & Cultural Tours, we will visit different environments where we will have chances to see many species of birds, including endemic species. We start birding close to Cusco, at the Huacarpay Lake, followed by different beautiful gardens in the Sacred Valley, the spectacular pass Abra Málaga, and last but certainly not least: the famous Manu National Park.
Huacarpay Lake
Huacarpay Lake, situated 30 km south of Cusco, is the last watery remains of Lake Morkill that covered the entire valley of Cusco 24 million years ago. At some point this immense lake disappeared and left a fertile valley. Huacarpay and the surrounding wetlands are a protected area due to the important ecosystem. Huacarpay is home to more than 100 different (aquatic) bird species like the Many-colored Rush-Tyrant, Rusty-fronted Canastero, Great Egret, Plumbeous Rail, Bearded Mountaineer, Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant, Puna Teal, and the White-tufted Grebe. The name Huacarpay comes from the Quechua language and means place of the Great Egret.
Ensifera Camp – Sacred Valley
One of the gardens that we will visit during the tours is the Ensifera Camp in the Sacred Valley. The garden is situated close to the town of Yanahuara and Urubamba in the Sacred Valley, at 3000 meters above sea level. This green garden with (native) plants, flowers, and fruits, is home to many interesting hummingbird species. One of them is the spectacular Sword-billed Hummingbird (Ensifera ensifera), after which the garden was named. Other species are the Tyrian Metaltail, White-tufted Sunbeam, Shining Sunbeam, White-bellied Hummingbird, Green-and-white Hummingbird, Giant Hummingbird and the Great Sapphirewing. There is a roofed construction from where it is possible to observe and photograph the birds.
Sacred Garden – Sacred Valley
In a quiet part of the Sacred Valley, close to the town of San Salvador (3020 meters above sea level), between fields of corn and potatoes, lays the beautifully designed Sacred Garden. This bird observatory has many flowers, local plants, fruit trees, bird feeders, different terraces, and constructions to observe and photograph the birds during rain or sun. The garden is visited by different species of hummingbirds like the endemic Green-and-white Hummingbird, Giant Hummingbird, Bearded Mountaineer, Sparkling Violetear, Green-tailed Trainbearer, and other species, such as the beautiful Black-backed Grosbeak, Golden-billed Saltator and the endemic Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch.
Both gardens are very nice places for enjoying the birds and the beauty of the Sacred Valley.
Abra Málaga
During the 8-days Birding & Culture Tour, Abra Málaga will be one of our birding highlights. This important pass is located on main road that connects Cusco and Quillabamba and is also the highest pass on this road with an impressive 4316 meters above sea level. The pass is known for its stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. At the highest part of the pass, snow, fog, and rain are frequent visitors and make the views even more dramatic. Worth mentioning is the small café called El Abra, located at the highest part of the pass. The café has a fireplace and is tastefully decorated. They serve the most delicious hot chuncho chocolate that we have ever tasted. Chunco chocolate is native to the Quillabamba Valley in Southern Peru. A stop at El Abra is always a treat.
The vegetation at the highest part of Abra Málaga is tropical montane pluvial moor, with small polylepis forests that are endemic to the mid- and high-elevation regions of the tropical Andes. The Polylepis Forest has an important role in reducing soil erosion and as a habitat for endangered bird species like the Royal Cinclodes, Tawny Tit-Spinetail and the endemic White-browed Tit-Spinetail.
Following the road down in the direction of Quillabamba and the valleys of Huayopata and Calquiña, the landscape slowly changes. The vegetation becomes denser and greener, the trees higher and eventually the mystical Cloud Forest appears. This route through the Abra Málaga area, with its variety of landscapes due to the different altitudes, offers great birding opportunities for many species like the Puna Thistletail, Diademed Tapaculo, Thrush-like Wren, Rufous-chested Tanager, Plushcap, Buff-breasted Mountain-tanager, Chestnut-bellied Mountain-tanager, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-tanager, as well as the endemic Unstreaked Tit-tyrant, Creamy-crested Spinetail, Red-and-white Antpitta, Masked Fruiteater, Parodi’s Hemispingus and the punky Cuzco Brush-Finch.
Other animals that live in the Abra Málaga area are the Puma, Vizcacha, White-tailed Deer and the elusive Andean Cat.
Manu National Park
Down the slopes of the Andes mountains lays the famous Manu National Park with its lush cloud and rain forests and many different rivers. This 1.5 million-ha UNESCO park with its diverse ecosystems, is home to an unprecedented variety of animals, plant species, butterflies, orchids, and more than 1000 bird species. The extraordinary biodiversity, its large size and great conservation state makes Manu National Park a place of global importance. Beside the many bird species, there are more than 200 species of mammals to be found in Manu, as well as a great number of freshwater fish species. The amazon forest area of the park is home to the long-isolated tribe of the Mashco-Piro people. Due to the difficult access, the park is still nearly roadless and has been spared from most modern human impact. It is a beautiful and pristine place that could make one think of the “Garden of Eden”. It is the highlight birding destination of our 12-days Birding & Culture Tour.
In the park we will stay in comfortable lodges and we will visit beautiful gardens owned and run by local people, where we will be able to observe many bird species like the spectacular King Vulture, Golden-headed Quetzal, different toucans, tanagers and many hummingbirds like the Rufous-Crested Coquette, Peruvian Racket-tail, Wire-crested Thorntail, Peruvian Piedtail to name just a few. We also have chances to see the Andean Potoo, Paradise Tanager, Crimson-bellied Woodpecker, Band-tailed Fruiteater, Solitary Eagle, Ornate Hawk-Eagle, Versicolored Barbet, Black-backed Tody-Flyctacher, Manu Antbird, Yellow-billed Nunbird and many many more. We will visit the lek of Peru’s national bird: the colorful and funny Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, where we can observe the males during their display dances to attract females.
Manu National Park is also home to many mammals that, with a bit of luck, we might be able to spot, like different species of monkeys, the Spectacled Bear, Tayra and maybe even the Jaguar. We will explore this wild nature by car, boat and on foot.
The Birding & Culture tours that we offer, are a perfect way to experience the two fascination worlds that makes Peru a unique country: unprecedented nature and an unrivaled cultural past. If you are interested to know more about our Birding & Culture tours, you can find the tour description of the 8-days tour and the 12-days tour on our website. Please get in contact with us for the full itineraries and prices, or when you wish to design your own Birding & Culture Tour. We hope to hear from you!
Written by Eva Wu – Photos by Steve Sánchez & Eva Wu
References:
Ancient Cuzco: Heartland of the Inca, Brian S. Bauer, University of Texas Press, 1 jun 2004
1492: New revelations of the Americas before Columbus, Charles Mann, Random House Inc, 2006
Wikipedia
Kuntur Nature and Adventure EIRL
Company Address: Av. Industrial Conj. Hab. FOVIPOL. Nr 104 – Santiago – Cusco – Peru
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