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NORTHERN PERU BIRDING TOUR
February 20, 2024
In this blog we explore the different places that we visit during our 16-days Northern Peru Birding Tour. Thanks to its size and the mighty Andes Mountains, Peru has an astonishing variety of landscapes, vegetations, and therefore one of the highest biodiversities in the world. During the Northern Peru birding Tour, we are able to enjoy many different landscapes and ecosystems. We start our journey at the Pacific coast, wind our way up the high Andes mountains, cross dry valleys, and at the other side of mountains, dive down into elfin and cloud forests and eventually into the vast and lush Amazon Rainforest. A very diverse route, with many (endemic) species of birds to discover.
Chiclayo
The tour starts with an 1 hour flight from Lima to Chiclayo, a city located close to the Pacific Ocean (13 km), in the department of Lambayeque. It is the fourth-largest city in the country and the financial and commercial capital of Northern Peru, situated in the Sechura Desert. This vast coastal desert runs all along the Pacific Ocean coast to the South of Peru and Chile and inland to the foothills of the Andes Mountains.
Chiclayo is the hometown of our chauffeurs Baldomero Vazquez and his son Miguel. They deserve a little shout-out, as they are of great value for our Kuntur Birding tours in (Northern) Peru. For over 10 years, we have been working together with Baldomero and he proofed himself to be a very reliable, kind, helpful, responsible colleague and friend. He and his son, who joined his father’s transportation company some years ago, are fantastic drivers in all kinds of, sometimes challenging, Peruvian road situations (think of small unpaved mountain roads and roads affected by very strong tropical rains…). Baldomero has an incredible eye to spot birds and he organizes the most delicious picnics in the field. We are lucky to be able to work with the Vazquez family.
A sidestep to the historical past of the Chiclayo – Lambayeque region because that is what makes Peru a country like no other: the incredible richness in archeological sites of Pre-Columbian cultures. In precolonial times, the Northern coast of Peru was home to the Moche (Mochicas). The Moche civilization began between the 1st and 7th centuries AD and developed a broad knowledge about irrigation with canals to support agriculture in the dry desert. The water that they used, came from different rivers that originated in the Andes, crossing the vast desert on their way to the Pacific Ocean. The Moche culture is known for its use of copper in ornamental objects, tools and weapons. And also for the beautiful and elaborate ceramics representing animals, scenes of ceremonies and myths reflecting the Moche perception of the world. Moche representations of human faces, known as huaco portraits, are characterized by an astonishing expressiveness, perfection and realism. The Moche civilization disappeared because of natural disasters caused by the climate phenomenon El Niño.
Museums in Chiclayo – Lambayeque
The Royal Tombs of Sipán Museum close to Chiclayo is more than worth visiting to get an idea of the grandeur of the Moche culture. This museum is built in the shape of the tombs found in 1987 by archaeologist Walter Alva, at Huaca Rajada, Sipán. The museum contains the impressive and beautiful artifacts from the tombs of the Lord of Sipán (El Señor de Sipán). This name was given to the first of several Moche mummies found in the tombs. The main tomb was still intact and untouched by grave robbers, when it was discovered by Alva.
Another interesting museum located in the town Lambayeque is the Brüning Museum (Museo Regional Arqueológico Enrique Bruning de Lambayeque). The museum is based on collections that German researcher Hans Heinrich Brüning gathered in the 19th century and 20th century. There are artifacts of different Pre-Colombian indigenous cultures to be admired like an invaluable textile collection, ceramics of the Chimú and Vicús, as well as thousands of golden objects, including funeral masks of copper, ceremonial vessels, and jewelry of Moche, Chimú and Lambayeque cultures.
Although it is not included in the itinerary of our Northern Peru Birding Tour, it is always possible to make time for a visit to a museum.
Bosque de Pómac
Our first birding stop of the tour is Bosque de Pómac. This historical sanctuary (5,887.38 hectares, established in 2001) is a protected area located in the province of Ferreñafe, department of Lambayeque. The vegetation is equatorial dry forest that is home to unique flora and fauna species that are adapted to the dry climate like the Carob Tree and the endemic Peruvian Plantcutter. Around 89 species of birds have been recorded in Bosque de Pómac, among them the Tumbes Swallow, Necklaced Spinetail Rufous Flycatcher, Superciliated Wren, Coastal Miner (endemic), Tumbes Tyrant, and the Tumbes Sparrow.
Bosque de Pómac is called an historical sanctuary because of the 36 pyramids of the Sicán culture that are preserved within the area. The Sicán culture (or Lambayeque culture) existed between 700 and 1375 AD and occupied a territory that is now the department of Lambayeque, including Chiclayo. The culture was formed towards the end of the Moche civilization and assimilated much of Moche knowledge and cultural traditions. Drought and El Niño floods fastened the fall of the Sícan civilization until in 1375 the Chimú conquered the Lambayeque region.
Reservorio Tinajones
We continue our birding tour in the direction of the Chaparrí Reserve situated 60 km from Chiclayo. On our way we will make a birding stop at Reservorio de Tinajones, a large artificial lake that was created to supply water for the population and agriculture of Lambayeque. It is a calm and green place, an oasis in de vast and dry desert environment and home to interesting (aquatic) bird species, like the Comb Duck, White-browed Gnatcatcher, Short-tailed Field-Tyrant, Peruvian Thick-Knee, Spotted Rail, and in the migration season species like the Baird’s Sandpiper, Roseate Spoonbill, Blue-winged Teal, Stilt Sandpiper, Osprey.
Reserva Ecológica de Chaparrí
The Chaparrí Reserve is the first private conservation area recognized in Peru in alliance with the “Santa Catalina” Peasant Community of Chongoyape-Muchik. We will stay a few nights at the beautiful lodge of the reserve with spectacular views of the mountain that is surrounded by legends and after which the reserve is named. Around the lodge are different trails to explore the area.
The dry forest of the reserve is home to a diverse flora and fauna, including endangered species such as the Spectacled Bear, Guanaco, Andean Condor and White-winged Guan. This endemic bird species was feared to be extinct for nearly a century until it was rediscovered in 1977, after which a successful captive-breeding and conservation program followed. The estimated total White-winged Guan population to date is around 135 individuals. A White-winged Guan family took residence at the Chaparrí Lodge, which offers us the chance to observe and photograph them very closely. Other frequent guests at the lodge, especially at night, are toads and the pretty and slender Sechuran Fox, or Peruvian Desert Fox.
At walking distance from the lodge is a wildlife rescue center designed specifically for Spectacled Bears. The bears that (temporary) live here in large semi-wild enclosures, have been confiscated from illegal captivity. It is possible to visit the center with a local guide.
At the reserve, more than 190 bird species can be found like the Scarlet-backed Woodpecker, Gray-breasted Flycatcher (endemic), Gray-and-Gold Warbler, Gray-and-White Tyrannulet, and White-tailed Jay. It is a good place for owling as well, because the Peruvian Screech-Owl, Peruvian Pygmy-Owl and Striped Owl make frequent appearances.
There is a beautiful hummingbird garden with feeders and a bath for the birds. From a covered construction with seats, we can observe different species of hummingbirds, like the Purple-collared Woodstar, Tumbes Hummingbird (endemic), Amazilia Hummingbird, Long-billed Starthroat, Short-tailed Woodstar, Oasis Hummingbird, Peruvian Sheartail, and Little Woodstar, not much bigger than a bee.
Abra de Porculla
After Chaparrí, we will leave the desert behind and our tour continues to the east in the direction of the mighty Andes mountains. The Andes are the longest continental mountain range in the world, extending from north to south through seven South American countries: Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina. The range is 8,900 km long, 200 to 700 km wide, and has an average height of about 4000 m. We will spend the night in the town of Olmos at the base of the mountains with birding stops along the way.
The next day we will start our ascent of the Cordillera de los Andes and we will be treated with the most spectaculair views of the mountains and valleys. We will cross the mountains at Abra de Porculla. This pass is the lowest (2145 meters above sea level) and shortest crossing point of the entire Andes Mountain range. While crossing, we can see how the vegetation changes radically from western dry forest to greener subtropical montane dry forest.
Around Abra de Porculla we will make some birding stops, where we can see interesting species like the White-winged Brush-finch, White-headed Brush-finch, Elegant Crescentchest, Red-masked Parakeet, One-colored Becard, Plumbeous-backed Thrush, Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner, Rufous-necked Foliage-gleaner, Piura Chat-Tyrant, Chapmans Antshrike, among others.
We continue our route east following the river Huancabamba in the direction of the city of Jaén (729 meters above sea level). This city is the capital of the province with the same name in the Cajamarca Region. Situated in a valley, it is one of the warmest cities in Peru.
In the forest and scrub areas of the outskirts of Jaén we can find interesting bird species such as the Tataupa Tinamou, Pearl Kite, Fulvus-faced Pygmy-Tyrant, Rufous-fronted Thornbird, Yellow-tailed Oriole, Tumbes Tyrannulet, Marañon Spinetail, Chinchipe Spinetail (endemic), the beautiful Marañon Crescentchest, endemic to the Marañón Valley of northwestern Peru and southern Ecuador, as well as the Little Inca-Finch (endemic). The Little Inca-Finch is entirely restricted to the driest area of the inter-Andean Marañón Valley in Peru. It is one of the 5 species of Inca Finches. Little is known about the natural history and behavior of the Little Inca-Finch, the population is estimated to be around 1292 individuals. Their conservation status is vulnerable to near threatened, due to the small geographic area they live in and threats to their habitat.
Bosque de Yanahuanca
The next interesting birding stop of this tour will be the Yanahuanca Forest, 30 minutes by car from Jaén. It is a private reserve run by a local family, with endemic flora and fauna species of the dry tropical forests of Marañón-Chinchipe. There are trails to explore the dry forest, with nice views from the higher part of the reserve. Many of the important bird species of this area can be found in the Yanahuanca Forest, like the Marañon Tyrannulet, Ecuadorian Ground-Dove, Green Jay, Marañon Thrush, Red-crested Finch, Rufous-fronted Thornbird, Chinchipe Spinetail, Scarlet-backed Woodpecker, Tataupa Tinamou, Northern Slaty-Antshrike, Drab Seedeater, Spot-throated Hummingbird, among others.
After our visit to the Yanahuanca Forest, we will start our climb up the mountains by car again, which gives us the chance to spot the Peruvian Pigeon (endemic). The higher we get, the environment starts to be greener, denser, colder, and more humid, until it becomes the famous Cloud Forest. This with moist and moss-covered forest is one of the most biodiversity rich ecosystems in the world with a large number of flora and fauna species. In Peru, more than one-third of the 270 endemic birds, mammals and frogs are found in the Cloud Forest. The clouds, rain, and moist air in the Cloud Forest are caused by the “transpiration” of billions of trees in the Amazon that moves westward up the slopes of the Andes mountains.
We will make birding stops during our way up the mountains, where we can see the Cliff Flycatcher, Speckled-chested Piculet, White-capped Dipper, Torrent Duck, Marañon Thrush, Black-necked Woodpecker (endemic), Golden-Rumped Euphonia, Little Sunangel, Buff-bellied Tanager (endemic), and many more.
Huembo Reserve – Pomacochas
We will spend the night at the lodge of the Huembo Reserve (between 2500 and 3000 meters above sea level) near the town of Pomacochas, in the department of Amazonas. The NGO ECOAN (Asociación de Ecosistemas Andinos) purchased this property to protect one of the most beautiful hummingbirds of the world: the Marvelous Spatuletail. This tiny, endemic hummingbird only lives in this small area of Northern Peru and its conservation status is listed as endangered. Males use their long tails in fascinating courtship displays for females, which we are hopefully able to witness. During the display, the 2 long tail feathers with spatulas are rattled above their heads.
The feeders at the lodge are visited by the Marvelous Spatuletail and many other hummingbirds like the Little Woodstar, White-bellied Woodstar, Bronzy Inca, Speckled Hummingbird, Andean Emerald. The feeders are located right next to the lodge rooms, which offers us the opportunity to observe the birds from sunrise to sunset and to enjoy the beautiful views of the surrounding green and misty mountain slopes at the same time.
Close to the town of Pomacochas we will visit a lake with the same name, where we have chances to spot the Plumbeous Rail, Peruvian Meadowlark, Puna Snipe and Grassland Yellow-Finch,among others.
Before we continue our birding tour, we will take a short walk through a small farmers community close to Pomacochas, to the land of farmer Hidelber Nuñez and his family. At this idyllic place with feeders, we have another opportunity to see the Marvelous Spatuletail, Rufous-capped Thornbill, and the Andean Emerald.
You can read more about the Marvelous Spatuletail in our blog Hummingbird highlights in Northern Peru.
Abra Patricia
Our next birding stop will be in the private conservation area Abra Patricia, owned by the Peruvian NGO ECOAN. We will spend a few nights at the Owlet Lodge that is part of the area. The lodge is situated in the Cloud Forest at 2300 meters above sea level, so it can be chilly and especially humid. Around the lodge are several trails to walk, feeders for hummingbirds and observation tower that allows you to look over the canopy. There are feeders for the Chestnut Antpitta (endemic) and the Rusty-tinged Antpitta (endemic), close to the lodge as well. At night the walls of the lodge cabins are visited by a great amount of moths attracted by the light, one more beautiful than the other.
The Abra Patricia forest is located in the highest part of the Cloud Forest, an area classified as one of the critically endangered eco-regions of the world. Within Abra Patricia there are some spectacular endemic bird species to be found, like the Royal Sunangel, Long-whiskered Owlet, and the Johnson’s Tody-Flycatcher. The two last species are only recently discovered and described by scientists. Other bird species that we are able to see, are the Ochre-fronted Antpitta, Bar-winged Wood-wren, White-capped Tanager, Red-hooded Tanager, Yellow-scarfed Tanager, Southern Emerald Tucanet, Green-and-Black Fruiteater, Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager, Golden-winged Manakin, Metallic-green Tanager, White-breasted Wood-Wren, Sickle-winged Guan.
We will visit the hummingbird garden of Fundo Alto Nieva, a private conservation project, close to the Owlet Lodge. The feeders in the garden are visited by 20 different species of hummingbirds, among them the Royal Sunangel, Long-tailed Sylph, Booted Racket-tail, Peruvian Racket-tail, Collared Inca, Rufous-vented Whitetip, White-tailed Hillstar, and the Greenish Puffleg.
In the forest around Fundo Alto Nieva lives the endemic Long-whiskered Owlet. This species was “discovered” in 1976 by scientists from the Louisiana State University. It is unlike any other known owl species, with its extremely long facial “whiskers”, stubby wings, and a short tail. Still very little is known about its behavior, it may even be nearly flightless for example. But we don’t know for sure. It has the status of endangered (IUCN) because it lives in such a small, restricted area, and is vulnerable to habitat destruction. We will go on a dusk walk with a local guide deep into the forest to try to find this elusive little owl. The experience itself of being deep in the forest when the night falls and many insects start to sing, is very nice and special.
Reserva Arena Blanca
We continue our way, descending in the direction of the city of Moyobamba in the department of San Martin. Close to the town of Aguas Verdes, we will visit Reserva Arena Blanca (1150 meters above sea level), a private conservation area with very comfortable and pretty rooms. Around the reservation are nice gardens and a small organic plantation of local vanilla, which makes the area smell delicious. The tropical premontane forest of Arena Blanca is humid and we can feel the temperature rising the lower we get. At the reserve are hummingbird feeders where we can observe the Sapphire-spangled Emerald, Golden-tailed Sapphire, Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Ecuadorian Piedtail, White- browed Hermit, and the Wire-crested Thorntail, among others. There is a hide from where we can see the Little Tinamou and a family of Rufous-breasted Wood-Quails. From another hide with fruits we have the chance to see the endemic Huallaga Tanager, Burnished-buff Tanager, Magpie Tanager. Around the property we can see other birds, like the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Ornate Flycatcher, Scaled Fruiteater, Yellow-throated Toucan, Black-bellied Tanager, Equatorial Graytail, Dusky Spinetail, Vermillion Tanager, Scarlet-rumped Cacique, Blackish Antbird, and the beautiful Swallow-tailed Kite.
On our way to our next destination, we will do birding stops, with chances to see the Pale-breasted Thrush, Burnished-buff Tanager, Point-tailed Palmcreeper, Gilded Barbet, Black Caracara, Red-throated Caracara, Masked Duck, Wedge-tailed Finch, Purple Gallinule, Limpkin, Black-capped Donacobius, Green-backed Trogon, Varzea Thrush, Blackish Rail, Barred Antshrike, Riparian Antbird.
Moyobamba – Waqanki Lodge
The city of Moyobamba is our next stop is, located at an altitude of 860 meters above sea level, in the Valley of Alto Mayo, San Martin. Moyobamba is also known as the “City of Orchids”, because of the more than 3500 species of orchids in the region. We will stay at the Waqanki Lodge with beautiful gardens, hummingbird gardens with feeders and an observation tower, and an orchid garden with an impressive number of orchid species. Bird species that we can see in the gardens of the lodge and along the neighboring path up the hill called “Trocha Quebrada Mishquiyaquillo”, are the tiny but expressive Rufous-crested Coquette, Brown Violetear, Golden-tailed Saphire, Tawny-bellied Hermit, Long-billed Starthroat, Black-throated Hermit, Golden-collared Toucanet, Red-necked Woodpecker, Broad-billed Motmot, Slate-colored Grosbeak, Yellow-crowned Tanager, Lanceolated Moncklet, Lafresnayes Piculet, Peruvian-warbling Antbird, Olive-backed Foliage-Gleaner. At night we have chances to see the Tropical Screech-owl, Ferruginous Pygmy-owl, Stygian Owl, and the Band-bellied Owl.
Refugio Tingana
Close to Moyobamba, we embark on a motorboat that will bring us to the Refugio Tingana, following the Rio Mayo. Tingana is a primary forest that is temporarily flooded in an ecosystem of aguajales (palm swamps) and renacales. This natural area is the highest wetland in Peru at 840 meters above sea level. The Tingana sanctuary is a project of 7 local families who joined forces in 2004 to protect the vulnerable nature and endangered species that live in area. The project embraces ecotourism as a way to promote conservation and the active participation of the local community. With a local guide we will explore the flooded forest by canoe.
Tingana is home to more than 240 species of birds, including the 5 different species of Kingfishers that can be found in Peru: American Pygmy Kingfisher, Green Kingfisher, Green-and-rufous Kingfisher, Amazon Kingfisher, Belted Kingfisher. But also 8 species of herons, Horned Screamer, Limpkin, Hook-billed Kite, Silvered Antbird, and the Oriole Blackbird. By foot we will explore the non-flooded areas using trails, to see species such as the Cream-colored Woodpecker, Common Potoo, Slender-billed Kite, Solitary-black Cacique, Collared Plover, Chestnut-crowned Becard, White-throated Toucan, Sand-colored Nighthawk, Ladder-tailed Nightjar, Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper, Pygmy Antwren, and the Red-capped Cardinal.
Tingana is also home to a large number of mammals like different species of monkeys (Saddle-back Tamarin and Squirrel Monkey), River Otter, Coati, Sloth, and the Anteater, among others.
Morro de Calzada
Another birding stop during this trip, will be the Morro de Calzada, a lonely mountain that rises up to 575 meters from the plain Mayo River valley close to Moyobamba. Morro de Calzada has the characteristic climate of the humid high jungle and is home to a great diversity of wild flora and fauna. There are more than 200 bird and mammal species, as well as a large number of reptiles and insects. Birds that we can observe at Morro de Calzada are the Mishana Tyrannulet, Cinereous-breasted Spinetail, White-chested Swift, Zimmer’s Antbird, Fiery-capped Manakin, Yellow Tyrannulet, Painted Manakin (endemic), Spot-winged Antbird, Inambari Woodcreeper, among others. Hopefully we will also be able to see the endemic San Martin Titi Monkey, also called Rio Mayo Titi Monkey, and hear their beautiful song. This monkey, a resident of Morro de Calzada, is one of the most critically endangered primate species of the world.
Tarapoto
The city of Tarapoto will be our last destination of this 16-days birding tour in Northern Peru. At this point, we will be in the warm and humid Amazon rainforest. On the way to Tarapoto, we will make a birding stop at a small cave to observe a colony of Oilbirds, endemic to South America. This nocturnal bird looks like a big nightjar and has a heavy hooked bill and dark large eyes. The diet mainly consists of fruits that they find in the dark using echolocation and they also use smell to locate fruit. It is very impressive to see them on the walls of the cave and silently flying around.
Tarapoto is It is located 350 meters above sea level at the banks of the Rio Shilcayo and the Rio Cumbaza, which are tributaries of the Rio Mayo that we already got to know. The city is one of the main tourist and commercial centers in the Peruvian Amazon and is called the City of Palms, due to the of many species of Amazonian palm trees that grow in and around the city. Tarapoto is surrounded in the north by the Cordillera Escalera, a conservation area of humid tropical forest, and in the south by a fertile valley with rice, coffee, and cocoa plantations.
Lake Ricuricocha
Close to Tarapoto we will visit the lake Ricuricocha. This lake is a 5 km long natural depression formed by rain and is home to more than 65 species of birds that are typical of the Amazon region, like the Black-bellied Whistling-duck, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant, Ashy-headed Greenlet, Chestnut-vented Conebill, Sulphur-bellied Tyrant-Manakin, Rusty-backed Antwren.
Reserva Cerro la Escalera
The mountain range Cerro la Escalera forms the area between the last foothills of the Andes and the great Amazonian plains. Because of its geography, the reserve is home to a great diversity of plants and animals. It is characterized by many waterfalls, vertical walls covered with vegetation, and dense tropical montane forest. It preserves a long list of plants and animals, among them many endemic species, such as the Black Turtle and the Huallaga Tanager, as well as 30 amphibians and 10 reptiles that are exclusive to the site. Interesting birds we can see here are the Blue-capped Manakin, Golden-headed Manakin, Bright-rumped Attila, Carmiols Tanager, Dotted Tanager, Plumbeous Euphonia, Yellow-backed Tanager, Black-bellied Thorntail, Red-rumped Cacique, Opal-rumped Tanager, White Hawk, Ivory-billed Aracari, Fulvus-crested Tanager, Slaty-capped Shrike-vireo, Reddish Hermit, Chanell-billed Toucan, Red-stained Woodpecker, among many others.
Garden of Koepcke’s Hermit ACONABIKH
The garden Koepcke’s Hermit is part of a private reserve that protects 30 hectares of rain forest in the buffer zone of the Cordillera Escalera Regional Conservation Area. In the gardens with feeders at the reserve, we can find different species of (humming)birds that we can observe from a three-floored wooden tower, like the endemic Koepcke’s Hermit, Gould’s Jewelfront, Black-bellied Thorntail, White-browed Hermit, Golden-headed Manakin, Thrush-like Antpitta, Peruvian Antwarbler, Black-faced Antthrush, Blue-crowned Manakin, Blue-backed Manakin, Fiery-capped Manakin, sometimes the spectacular Hairy-crested Antbird and White-plumed Antbird.
Koepcke’s Hermit is named after Maria Koepcke, a German ornithologist (1924), well-known for her work with Neotropical bird species. She died at the age of 47 when the plane she and her daughter Juliane were on, crashed in the Peruvian jungle. Juliane was the only survivor. Maria Koepcke is commemorated for her efforts in the scientific names of four Peruvian bird species.
There are several trails at the property where we have the chance to see colorful poisonous frogs, different kind of insects like Praying Mantis and beautiful butterflies.
From Tarapoto we will fly back to Lima. It is always possible to extend the tour with, for example, a visit to Paracas and the Islas Ballestas at the Pacific coast close to Lima.
Would you like to come with us on this 16-days birding tour with the opportunity to see many bird species in different beautiful environments? You can find the short itinerary at our website. For the dates and prices, please get in touch with us.
Written by Eva Wu – Photos by Steve Sánchez & Eva Wu
References:
Kuntur Nature and Adventure EIRL
Company Address: Av. Industrial Conj. Hab. FOVIPOL. Nr 104 – Santiago – Cusco – Peru
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