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SACRED VALLEY & MANU NATIONAL PARK PHOTO TOUR
Ensifera Camp
The first garden that we visit in the Sacred Valley is Ensifera Camp. This garden is situated close to the town of Yanahuara and Urubamba, at 3000 meters above sea level. The green garden with (native) plants, flowersThis photo tour starts in the Sacred Valley of the Incas close to Cusco, where we will visit two beautiful gardens with feeders. Here we have great chances to photograph many species of hummingbirds, like the Sword-billed Hummingbird, Tyrian Metaltail, Bearded Mountaineer, among others., and fruits, is home to many interesting hummingbird species. One of them is the spectacular Sword-billed Hummingbird (Ensifera ensifera), after which the garden is named. Other species are the Tyrian Metaltail, White-tufted Sunbeam, Shining Sunbeam, White-bellied Hummingbird, Green-and-white Hummingbird, and Giant Hummingbird. There is a roofed construction from where we can observe and photograph the birds that are visiting various feeders. The hummingbirds are used to drink from picked flowers, which allows us to make beautiful photos (multi flash is also possible).
Sword-billed Hummingbird
The bronze-green Sword-billed Hummingbird from the Andean regions in South America, is the only member in the genus Ensifera. It is one of the largest species of hummingbirds and is characterized by its unusual long bill. It is the only bird in the world that has a bill that is longer than the rest of its body, excluding the tail. The bill is so long that the Sword-billed Hummingbird has to use its feet to scratch and groom. The bill is used to drink nectar from flowers with long corollas, like the passionflower species Passiflora mixta. The Swordbill has coevolved with this flower species, that is exclusively pollinated by this hummingbird. The corolla tube of the flower is so long, that only this hummingbird’s bill is long enough to reach the nectar. Additional evidence of coevolution is that both species inhabit the same territory range along the Andean Mountains of Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia (2400-3600 meters above sea level). Due to the length and weight of its bill, the Swordbill has to perch with the bill pointing upwards. It is a spectacular species to have in front of our camera lenses.
Sacred Garden
In a quiet part of the Sacred Valley, close to the town of San Salvador (3020 meters above sea level), between fields of corn and potatoes, lays the beautifully designed Sacred Garden. This bird observatory has many flowers, local plants, fruit trees, bird feeders, different terraces in Inca style, and constructions to observe and photograph the birds during rain or sun. The garden is visited by different species of hummingbirds, like the Giant Hummingbird, Bearded Mountaineer, Sparkling Violetear, Green-tailed Trainbearer, and the Green-and-White Hummingbird, among others. Other species that we can photograph here are the beautiful Golden-billed Saltator, Black-backed Grosbeak, and the endemic Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch.
Giant Hummingbird
With a length of 23 cm, the Giant Hummingbird is the largest member of the hummingbird family. Although its large size, the brown colored Giant Hummingbird is slender, with a long straight bill and very long wings. These wings allow the hummingbird to glide in flight, a behavior that we rarely see among hummingbirds. While feeding on flower nectar, the Giant hovers with an average of 15 wing beats per second. This is quite slow for a hummingbird. Not only its size makes the Giant not difficult to miss, also its voice is very present. It is a loud and sharp “chip”, almost like a dog toy. The species is widely distributed throughout the the east and west sides of the Andes Mountain range. It likes higher altitude scrubland and forests during the summer and lower altitude habitats in the winter months. The Giant Hummingbirds that live at higher altitudes, are genetically adapted to lower oxygen levels in comparison to their lower living peers. Although the Giant is not colorful like many other hummingbirds, it is a very agile and acrobatic flyer, a beautiful bird to photograph.
Manu National Park
The highlight of this photography tour is the famous Manu National Park. This 1.5 million-ha UNESCO park with its diverse ecosystems, is home to an unprecedented variety of animals, plant species, butterflies, orchids, and more than 1000 species of birds. The extraordinary biodiversity, its large size and great conservation state makes Manu National Park a place of global importance. Beside many bird species, there are more than 200 species of mammals, as well as a great number of freshwater fish species. The Amazon Forest area of the park is home to the long-isolated tribe of the Mashco-Piro people. Due to its difficult access, the park is still nearly roadless and has been spared from most modern human impact. It is a beautiful and pristine place that could make you think of the “Garden of Eden”.
The park can be reached by car in about 6 hours in northeastern direction from Cusco. The drive to the park is spectacular with beautiful views of high Andes plateaus with potato fields, deep valleys with rivers and snow-capped mountain peaks to make the picture complete. The road passes through several Andean communities and cultural sites as well. In the small town of Paucartambo colorfully dressed farmers sell freshly made bread, cheese and fruits. The “Manu Road” starts at the entrance of the park at the Acjanaco pass (3560 m.) with Puna grasslands and Elfin Forest, and continues down the slopes of the Andes mountains through the Cloud Forest, to end in the Amazon lowlands at 150 meters above sea level. The road is recently paved and follows the borders of the park.
Especially the Cloud Forest is home to a remarkable diversity of plants that offer a home to thriving populations of birds, amphibians, orchids, and mammals. This forest is so rich in flora and fauna species, due to the constant moisture that is coming up from the Amazon Lowlands. The Cloud Forest is named after the mist and fog it is often blanketed in.
Along the Manu Road, we stay in comfortable lodges, and we visit beautiful gardens run by local people, where we are able to observe many bird species, like the beautiful King Vulture and Golden-headed Quetzal, different toucans, tanagers, many hummingbirds, like the Rufous-Crested Coquette, Peruvian Racket-tail, Wire-crested Thorntail, Peruvian Piedtail. We also have chances to photograph the Andean Potoo, Paradise Tanager, Hooded Mountain-Tanager, Grass-green Tanager, Black-faced Brushfinch, Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch, Crimson-bellied Woodpecker, Band-tailed Fruiteater, Solitary Eagle, Ornate Hawk-Eagle, Versicolored Barbet, Black-backed Tody-Flyctacher, and the funny Andean Cock-of-the-Rock.
Manu National Park is also home to many mammals including different species of monkeys, like the Wooly Monkey, Black-capped Squirrel-Monkey, Dusky Titi Monkey, and Large-headed Capuchin. With a bit of luck, we can spot the Spectacled Bear, Tayra, and maybe even the Jaguar.
Wayqecha Cloud Forest Biological Station
The first lodge where we spend the night in the Manu National Park, is located at 3000 meters above sea level in the Kosñipata Valley. The lodge is part of a research center called Wayqecha Cloud Forest Biological Station (Wayqecha meaning brother in the Quechua language. This permanent field research station, focused on Cloud Forest ecology and management, was created in 2005 by the NGO Amazon Conservation. The research area serves as a protective buffer along the border of Manu National Park. The wooden individual cabins of the lodge are comfortable and have a private bathroom with a warm water shower. There is electricity at night and WIFI in the dining area. The views from the cabins over the surrounding valley are spectacular. Several trails are winding through Andean grasslands, Elfin Forest and Cloud Forest, and offer a great way to explore the area. The highlight is the canopy walkway, a high hanging bridge, which allows us to see the forest from a totally different perspective.
200 species of are birds listed in the area. There are flocks with different species of tanagers visiting the fruit trees, like the Grass-green Tanager, Golden-collared Tanager, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Hooded Mountain-Tanager, to name just a few.
In the gardens around the lodge cabins and dining area are hummingbird feeders that offer good chances to photograph the Amethyst-throated Sunangel, Tyrian Metaltail, Collared Inca, Violet-throated Starfrontlet, and other bird species like the Masked Flowerpiercer, Andean Guan,and Great Thrush.
Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge
Our tour continues down the Manu Road, with photography stops along the way whenever it is possible. Our next accommodation is the Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge, named after Peru’s national bird: the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock. The lodge is beautifully located nearby a river at 1600 meters above sea level in the Cloud Forest. The evergreen trees are covered with mosses, lichens, and bromeliads. It is owned by Peru Verde, a non-profit conservation organization that protects 5,060 hectares of Cloud Forest. The purpose of the lodge is to have minimal impact on the environment while providing a comfortable accommodation. The individual wooden cabins have private bathrooms and warm water. There is wifi and electricity at night in the dining area.
There is a separate open dining area where delicious meals are served, with beautiful views of the garden with feeders for hummingbirds. Large-headed Capuchin-Monkeys make regular visits to the garden and sometimes even to the dining room to look for something tasty to grab. The window panels with mosquito screen (no glass) in the dining area, can be opened to take photos from the birds in the garden. In another part of the lodge area, there are bird feeding tables that are visited by the Silver-beaked Tanager, Versicolored Barbet, Buff-throated Saltator, Blue-gray Tanager, Golden-bellied Euphonia, and the Golden Tanager, among others. There is a roofed wooden terrace from where we can take photos of the birds.
Close to the lodge, we will visit the lek of the colorful and funny Andean Cock-of-the-Rock. Here we are able to photograph the males during their noisy, courting rituals to attract females. The lek is situated close to the road and has a roofed wooden terrace from where we can take photos. It is a delight to see and hear the males show off their display bob and hop dances.
Andean Cock-of-the-Rock
The Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Tunki in Quechua, is an iconic bird of the Andes. It was named as the National Bird of Peru during the government of former President Manuel Prado in 1941, because of its colorful plumage. With its fairly large size, chunky bright orange body, light blue eyes (subspecies in Peru – in Colombia the eye is yellow), and a large disk-like crest, it is a very attractive bird to photograph. Tunki lives in the Cloud Forest at middle elevations (500 – 2400 m.) across Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia. The female is orange brown with a smaller crest. The Andean Cock-of-the-Rock got its name because it likes to build nests on large rocks and cliffs. It feeds on fruits and insects. The only similar species is the Guianan Cock-of-the-rock, but there is no range overlap. The best months for photographing the Cock-of-the-Rock are from Jun to March, but the males display all through the year.
Another highlight photo stop is the new garden of Don Victor Fernandez and his family. The Fernandez family is one of the few families that live along the Manu Road. Don Victor is working hard to create a beautiful garden with hummingbird and fruit feeders. His hard work is paying off, since many species already found their way to the feeders like the Peruvian Racket-tail, Versicolored Barbet, Rusty-naped Tanager, Golden-collard Honeycreeper, and the Golden Tanager, among others. There is a wooden roofed construction from where we have great photo opportunities. Last year, Don Victor and his son found a nest of a Solitary Eagle couple on their land. You can read about our visit to the nest in the blog: A visit to the Solitary Eagles.
Bamboo Lodge
On the way to the Bamboo Lodge, we can find species of the lowlands and secondary forest like the Swallow Tanager, Turquoise Tanager, Green-and-gold Tanager, Blue-crowned Trogon, Bat Falcon, Speckled Chachalaca among many others. In the gardens of the Bamboo lodge, we will have good opportunities to photograph a variety of hummingbirds at feeders: Golden-tailed Sapphire, Blue-tailed Emerald, Wire-crested Thorntail, Amethyst Woodstar, Samphire-spangled Emerald, and the magnificent Rufous-crested Coquette. At the fruit feeders we have chances to photograph different species of tanagers such as the Silver-beaked Tanager, Blue-gray Tanager, and other species like the Violaceous Jay, and Blue-headed Parrot. We will spend the night in the basic, but charming wooden cabins of the lodge. All of the cabins have their own private bathroom with warm showers.
Manu Biological Station
Our next photo destination is the Manu Biological Station, previously known as Villa Carmen. The station is located close to the town of Pilcopata in the Kosñipata Valley at 800 meters above sea level. It is part of a preserved nature area that is acquired and managed by NGO Conservación Amazónica – ACCA since 2010. Prior to the colonial times, this area was a coca-growing state controlled by the Inca Empire. By the end of the 19th century, the property became a farm and was named Villa Carmen. As Manu Biological Station, it is considered a biodiversity hotspot within the buffer zone of Manu National Park and home to a big variety of species of butterflies, reptiles, amphibians, birds, and mammals. More than 650 species of birds are found in the area. The lodge of Manu Biological Station has 6 new wooden cabins with mosquito nets and private bathrooms with warm water.
There are many trails around the lodge with great chances to photograph birds like the Hoatzin, Blue-throated Piping-Guan, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Red-capped Cardinal, Purplish Jay, Blue-necked Tanager, Crimson-crested Woodpecker, Black-banded Owl, Ringed Woodpecker, and many more.
Different species of mammals that live in the area include the Tapir, Giant Anteater, Large-headed Capuchin, Black-headed Night Monkey, and big cats such as the Jaguar and the Jaguarundi.
Mirador Pico de Hoz
We will visit a couple of gardens close to the town of Pilcopata, in the buffer zone of Manu National Park. These gardens are owned and managed by local people. The first one is Mirador Pico de Hoz, a private reserve owned by Yonatan Puma and his wife. The reserve consists of 6 reforested hectares, with several gardens with feeders, trails, a small lake, and the only ‘feeder’ in Peru that is visited by the fantastic King Vulture. From the hide next to the feeder, we have great chances to photograph this beautiful vulture and other vultures as well, like the Greater Yellow-headed Vulture, and the Black Vulture. If you would like to know more about the King Vulture, you can read our blog: King Vulture – the most beautiful vulture of the New World.
At the upper part of the reserve is a big, roofed terrace with tables and chairs that provide a nice view over the property. Hummingbird feeders and fruit feeders can be observed from the terrace, offering excellent photo opportunities for different bird species, like the Rufous-breasted Hermit, Pale-tailed Barbthroat, White-bearded Hermit, Great-billed Hermit, Golden-tailed Saphire, White-necked Jacobin, Saphire-spangled Emerald, Long-billed Starthroat. Jonathan established a special relationship with an Amazonian Antpitta, as well as with an Undulated Tinamu, and a Russet-crowned Crake, which gives us great photo chances.
Large-headed Capuchin Monkeys, Dusky Titi-Monkey and Black-capped Squirrel Monkey also visit the fruit feeders regularly.
Inka Amazonia Garden
A little further down the road, there is another beautiful garden named Inka Amazonia, which owned by Lincon Huamantupa Chuquimaco. This garden offers great chances to photograph different species of hummingbirds, like Koepcke’s Hermit, White-browed Hermit, Gould’s Jewelfront, Black-throated Hermit, Violet-headed Hummingbird, Blue-fronted Lancebill, and sometimes the fantastic Buff-tailed Sicklebill. One of the highlights of this garden is the tiny Rufous-crested Coquette. This photogenic hummingbird lives on the east slopes of the Andes and in the Amazon Forest (600–2000 m.) The males have a striking, elongated, rufous crest, that they can put straight up, and which gives them a fierce look. The tiny body is glistering green with a short rufous colored tail and a white band. They feed on nectar and can be found circling around flower crowns. A delight to photograph!
The garden has a roofed terrace, with chairs and tables. The fruit feeders are visited by the Lemon-throated Barbet, Turquoise Tanager, Yellow-bellied Dacnis, Masked Tanager, Green Honeycreaper, and Speckled Chachalaca.
These are the highlights of our 12-days photo tour to the Scared Valley of the Incas and the famous Manu Road, where the photo opportunities are infinite. Would you like to come with us? For dates and prices, please get in touch with us. It is possible to extend the tour with cultural visits to interesting Inca sites around Cusco. Read about the these Inca sites in Cusco and the Sacred Valley in our blog: Birding & Culture Tours.
Written by Eva Wu – Photos by Steve Sánchez & Eva Wu
References:
Kuntur Nature and Adventure EIRL
Company Address: Av. Industrial Conj. Hab. FOVIPOL. Nr 104 – Santiago – Cusco – Peru
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